Philipkutty’s Farm is located 27 kms from Alleppey town and 60 kms from Cochin.
It is set on a beautiful small farm island which was reclaimed from the backwaters (Vembanad Lake) in the early 1950’s by the grandfather of the late Vinod Kutty. The working farm, which practices sustainable / organic methods of farming, is two metres below the lake level and has coconut, toddy, nutmeg, banana, cocoa and pepper cultivation not to forget the jumbo prawn (scampi) and karimeen fish (pearlspot) found in some of the farm canals. Though accessible by road up to the opposite bank, it is the ‘vallam’ (countryboat) that will finally take you across.
The following activities are available at Philipkutty’s Farm:
Enjoy a complimentary sunset cruise every evening on a vallam (country boat) out in the open backwaters. The sights, breeze, sounds and smell of the late evenings are indeed very soothing. The sun setting over Lake Vembanad is truly magical. If you are lucky you can also catch the moonrise.
Take a canal cruise through the narrow and winding canals on a vallam or motor boat and catch a glimpse of the unique backwater villages.
For bird watchers the backwaters and the farm offer ample opportunities for sighting kingfishers, woodpeckers, egrets, cormorants, herons, crowpheasants, snakebirds, teals, etc.
Ask for a cooking class from mum and learn the nuances of the local cuisine.
Take a farm walk with one of the Family and learn about farming below lake level as well as the different crops cultivated. Do check out toddy tapping but be careful if you decide to sample….
Walk around the island along the outer dyke. This may take a little under 3 hours and covers a distance of approximately 8 kms. You could also walk in the village and the market, across on the mainland.
Do a wider sightseeing and exploration trip of the countryside on a bicycle which is available for use. A sketch of the region can be provided and you get to enjoy the coconut groves, paddy fields, canals and villages that blend into each other. Most of the roads in the mainland are flat with little or no gradient.
For the adventurous try swimming in the backwaters in front of the villas.
Visit the Ayurvedic Centre opposite the property for consultation. Try out rejuvenating massages to proper Ayurvedic treatments for various ailments, spread over weeks if need be.
Try fishing (rods available), or, if you are lucky, check out if you can spike scampi at night. Hope you have better luck than we did!
Visit the St. Mary’s parish church at Vechoor. This is an old church with a history dating back to over 500 yrs.
Visit the local temples which are in plenty, the Vaikom Siva temple being the biggest and most famous of the lot.
Visit a very old Nair Tharavad (household) – ‘The Kaimals’. The household has a history of over 400 yrs- their old wooden house being a testimony of this. The family temple, the old palm leaf manuscripts, the temple art of ‘kalam’ drawing (for which only natural and organic pigments are used) and the tallest Snake God statue are the other attractions there.
All the villas are spacious, independent and located on the outer dyke facing the peaceful backwaters. The villas are named after popular local flower plants / trees and birds. The first villa designed by Swiss architect Karl Damscen is an open plan affair. The other villas designed by Thomas Dominic from Kochi, have a separate living room, bedroom and ‘sit-out’.
The villas are filled with antiques, including some beautifully carved and crafted doors and windows, which were meticulously collected over a period of time. There is no air-conditioning, no telephone and no TV in any of the villas. TV and telephones are available at our residence, should the need arise. There are ceiling fans in all the villas which we found to be perfectly acceptable in place of air conditioning.
There is a refrigerator and an electric kettle with tea/coffee making facilities in each room. The villas are well furnished with two large single beds, wardrobe, cupboard, writing table, and chair, settees and chairs in the ‘sit-out’. The en suite modern bathroom is spacious and clean. Extra beds are available if needed, and some villas can accommodate a family of four, although it can be a little cramped. There is also a generator to backup the electricity in case of power failure which does happen on a fairly regular basis. All windows are netted to deter the entry of insects.
There are plenty of doors and windows in each villa (18 windows and 8 doors) which open on to the farm, garden and backwaters, allowing for excellent circulation of fresh breeze and fascinating views from within. This is in keeping with the tradition of typical backwater bungalows. The idea was to make each villa an integral part of the surroundings so that by living in one you are not cut off.
The floor is finished in rustic clay tiles and the ceiling in wood. There is also a small verandah finished in traditional red-oxide which runs around each villa.
To complement the villas, there is a beautiful thatched pavilion on stilts, overlooking the farm with views of the backwaters. This is the main setting for meals, which all guests take together. The pavilion opens onto a small, neat courtyard under an old mango tree. Just the kind of setting for the lavish home cooked meals and interaction with fellow travellers.
Food is definitely one of the highlights of staying at Philipkutty’s Farm. The cuisine is mostly local and cooked by ‘Mummy’, Anu’s Mother-in-law. Lavish meals are pretty much a way of life here and you certainly won’t be disappointed by the range and quality of food. Fragrant curries are accompanied by several interesting salads, vegetable side dishes, homemade chutney’s and Indian bread – absolutely delicious! All guests stay on Full Board basis and therefore all meals are included in the price.
Meals are served either in the family dining room or outdoors in the courtyard or pavilion. Special diets can be catered for if required and vegetarian options can also be provided. In fact, all meals are discussed with the guests beforehand.
The cuisine is predominantly Syrian Christian with a strong backwater influence. Most of the dishes served are centred around fish, farm vegetables and fruits, duck, chicken and occasionally other meats, supplemented with rice and rice based local breads like appam, string hoppers etc. Some of the specialities are karimeen (pearlspot fish) fry, fish molee, prawn and scampi preparations, duck roast and curry, and red hot Kerala fish curry. Desserts are usually puddings, fresh fruits and some local treats.
Cooking classes are available for resident guests who are interested in learning the local cuisine.
For the adventurous, drinking Toddy (the fermented sap of the coconut tree- a kind of country liquor) is a must. Go easy – you have been warned!